Scottish Highlands road trip: Loch Ness, Glencoe and the Isle of Skye

A road trip through the Scottish Highlands takes in deep lochs, ruined castles, mountain glens and the Isle of Skye, all within a loop you can start and finish in Inverness. The distances look short on a map, but the roads are slow, winding and often single track, and the best stops deserve time. Allow at least four or five days, more if you want to walk. This guide covers the route, how long each leg takes and how to drive it safely.

The loop at a glance

Driving times are approximate and don't include stops.

• Inverness to Fort William along Loch Ness: about 105 km (65 miles), 1 hour 45 minutes. Best for Urquhart Castle and the loch.
• Fort William to Glencoe and back: about 25 km (16 miles) each way. Best for mountain scenery and walks.
• Fort William to Eilean Donan: about 120 km (75 miles), 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours. Best for the castle and Glen Shiel.
• Eilean Donan to Portree, Skye: about 65 km (40 miles), just over an hour. Best for crossing to the island.
• Portree back to Inverness: about 180 km (112 miles), roughly 3 hours.

A comfortable plan is one night near Loch Ness or in Fort William, one near Glencoe, and two or three on Skye.

Starting in Inverness

Inverness, the small capital of the Highlands, has an airport and direct trains from Edinburgh and Glasgow, and it's the easiest place to pick up a rental car. Spend an evening walking along the River Ness below the castle before setting off. If you're coming from Edinburgh, our guide to where to stay in Edinburgh helps with the city end of the trip.

Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle

Head south-west on the road along the north-western shore of Loch Ness. The loch is long, dark and very deep: at around 37 km (23 miles) long, it holds more fresh water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined. Stop at the ruins of Urquhart Castle, on a headland near Drumnadrochit, for the classic view down the loch. It's a ticketed site with a visitor centre; allow an hour or two. Fort Augustus, at the southern end, is a pleasant place for lunch beside the canal locks.

Glencoe

Past Fort William, below Ben Nevis, Britain's highest mountain, the road climbs into Glencoe, the most dramatic glen in Scotland. Pull in at the lay-bys to see the Three Sisters, three steep ridges on the south side of the glen, and continue to the eastern end, where the pyramid of Buachaille Etive Mòr guards the entrance. The glen is also remembered for the massacre of 1692, told at the visitor centre near Glencoe village. Walkers can spend a whole day here; for others, half a day of stops and short walks is enough.

Eilean Donan Castle

On the road to Skye, the A87 runs through Glen Shiel to Eilean Donan Castle, on a small island where three sea lochs meet, joined to the shore by a stone bridge. The castle was largely rebuilt in the early twentieth century on the ruins of a much older stronghold, and it's one of the most photographed places in Scotland. The view from the roadside is free; the interior is ticketed and usually open for most of the year. Allow about an hour.

Isle of Skye: Portree and the Trotternish peninsula

Cross the Skye Bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh onto the island. Portree, the main town, has a harbour lined with brightly painted houses and makes a good base for the north of the island.

North of Portree, the Trotternish peninsula holds Skye's most famous landscapes. The walk up to the Old Man of Storr, a group of rock pinnacles above the sea, takes about one and a half to two hours there and back on a steep, well-used path. Further north, the Quiraing is a wild landscape of cliffs, pinnacles and green hollows, reached by a narrow single-track road from Staffin. Car parks at both fill early in summer and charge fees.

With extra days, the Fairy Pools near Glenbrittle, Neist Point lighthouse in the far west and the Sleat peninsula in the south are good additions. Alternatively, leave Skye by the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig and drive back towards Fort William.

Driving tips for the Highlands

• Single-track roads: use the passing places to let oncoming cars by, pull in to let faster cars overtake, and never park in them.
• Drive on the left, and expect sheep, deer and slow tractors on the road.
• Fuel up when you can; filling stations are far apart in the north and on Skye.
• Hire cars: automatics are less common and more expensive, so book one early if you need it.
• Weather changes quickly at any time of year. Pack waterproofs and warm layers even in summer.

When to go

May, June and September usually offer long days and the best balance of weather and crowds. July and August are the busiest months. From late spring to late summer, tiny biting midges are common near water on still days, so pack insect repellent. Winter is quiet and beautiful but short on daylight, and some attractions and accommodation close.

Practical booking tips

• Book rooms on Skye well ahead for the summer; the island has limited accommodation and fills early.
• Check opening times for Urquhart Castle and Eilean Donan before you go, as they vary by season.
• Some Highland areas charge or are introducing a visitor levy on overnight stays; check the current rules when you book.

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Cover photo: Diliff, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons