Fairmont Empress, Victoria: history, location and what's nearby

The Fairmont Empress is Victoria's grand hotel, facing the Inner Harbour in the heart of downtown. Its steep roofs and gables form the most famous view in British Columbia's capital. This guide covers the hotel's history, how to reach it, what you can see on foot from the front door and who it suits.

A château on the harbour

The Canadian Pacific Railway opened the Empress in 1908, part of its chain of grand hotels across Canada. The architect was Francis Rattenbury, who had already designed the provincial Parliament Buildings next door, and he gave the hotel the château style used by the railway's other landmark hotels. Later wings extended it, and restorations over the years have kept its historic character.

Afternoon tea in the lobby lounge is a long-standing tradition and one of the best-known things to do in the city, even for visitors staying elsewhere. The hotel is a National Historic Site of Canada.

Where it is and how to get there

Victoria is on the southern tip of Vancouver Island, so arriving is part of the experience.

• By ferry from Vancouver: BC Ferries sail from Tsawwassen, south of Vancouver, to Swartz Bay, about a 30-minute drive north of downtown. The crossing through the Gulf Islands takes about an hour and a half.
• By seaplane: floatplanes fly from downtown Vancouver and land in the Inner Harbour, a short walk from the hotel.
• From Washington State: passenger ferries from Seattle and car ferries from Port Angeles arrive on the Inner Harbour.
• By air: Victoria International Airport is about 25 km north, roughly half an hour by car or airport shuttle.

Downtown is compact and flat, so you won't need a car for the city itself.

The Inner Harbour

Out front, the Inner Harbour is Victoria's meeting place. The stone causeway below the hotel hosts street performers and summer crowds, seaplanes take off and land among the boats, and whale-watching tours leave from the harbour in season. Evenings are the best time for a stroll, when the Parliament Buildings light up across the water.

The Parliament Buildings and the Royal BC Museum

A few minutes' walk away stand the British Columbia Parliament Buildings, also by Rattenbury and completed in the late 1890s. Free guided tours are usually offered; check the current schedule. After dark, thousands of small lights outline their domes and walls. Next door, across the street from the hotel, the Royal BC Museum covers the province's natural history and Indigenous cultures.

Fisherman's Wharf and the harbour ferries

Follow the waterfront walkway west to Fisherman's Wharf, about 20 minutes on foot. Its colourful floating homes, food kiosks and seals make it a relaxed stop, particularly around lunchtime. The small harbour ferries that shuttle between stops around the harbour are an easy way to get there or back and see the city from the water.

Chinatown and Craigdarroch Castle

A short walk north, Victoria's Chinatown is the oldest in Canada. Look for Fan Tan Alley, a passage barely wide enough for two people, now lined with small shops.

Craigdarroch Castle, a Victorian mansion built in the late 1880s for the coal baron Robert Dunsmuir, is a short bus ride or a longer uphill walk east of downtown. Its rooms and stained glass are well preserved, and the tower offers views over the city.

Butchart Gardens

Plan half a day for the Butchart Gardens, about half an hour's drive north on the Saanich Peninsula. The Sunken Garden, planted in a former limestone quarry, is the highlight, and the gardens change with the seasons. Public buses and tour coaches go there if you don't have a car. Go early or late in the day in summer to avoid the busiest hours.

Who it suits and when to go

The Empress suits couples and first-time visitors who want everything on foot: the harbour, museums, restaurants and shops are all within a few minutes' walk. It also works well as a weekend escape from Vancouver or Seattle without a car.

Summer is the sunniest and busiest season. Spring comes early on this part of the coast, with blossoms in Beacon Hill Park and sea views along Dallas Road, both a pleasant walk south of the hotel. Autumn and winter are milder than most of Canada, but wetter.

Nearby alternatives

Downtown Victoria has plenty of hotels near the harbour, from modern towers to small inns, and the James Bay neighbourhood south of the Parliament Buildings is quieter and residential. If you're combining the trip with the mainland, see the guide to where to stay in Vancouver.

Practical tips before you book

• Harbour-view rooms usually cost more. Check what a room category actually overlooks.
• Book ferries ahead in summer and on long weekends if you're bringing a car.
• Reserve afternoon tea in advance, especially at weekends and in the high season.
• Check the current rate, including taxes and parking, when you book.

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Cover photo: Dllu, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons