Iceland's South Coast road trip: waterfalls, black sand and glaciers

Iceland's South Coast packs more into a few hours of driving than almost anywhere else in Europe: waterfalls tumbling off old sea cliffs, black-sand beaches, glacier tongues and, at the far end, a lagoon full of icebergs. It all lines the Ring Road (Route 1) east of Reykjavík, so the planning is about distances, weather and knowing which stops need care.

The quick overview

• Seljalandsfoss: roughly 2 hours from Reykjavík. Best for walking behind a waterfall.
• Skógafoss: about 30 minutes further east. Best for a huge, easy-to-reach cascade and a climb to the top.
• Reynisfjara: about 30–40 minutes on, just west of Vík. Best for basalt columns and sea stacks.
• Vík: a small village roughly 2.5–3 hours from Reykjavík. The most practical base.
• Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach: about 2.5 hours east of Vík. Best for icebergs, and worth an overnight nearby if you can.

Driving from Reykjavík to Vík and back in a day is possible but rushed. Two days, with a night in or near Vík, is comfortable. Three days lets you add Jökulsárlón without spending the whole trip in the car.

Seljalandsfoss: behind the water

The first big waterfall you reach drops about 60 metres from a cliff that was once the coastline. A path loops behind the curtain of water, so you can see the falls from the inside. Expect to get wet: wear a waterproof jacket and shoes with good grip. The path behind the fall can close when it's icy, usually in winter.

A few minutes' walk north, the smaller Gljúfrabúi waterfall hides in a narrow gorge. Allow about an hour for both.

Skógafoss: the classic curtain

Half an hour east, Skógafoss is a broad curtain of water about 60 metres high. You can walk across the gravel almost to its base for the spray (and, on sunny days, rainbows), then climb the steep staircase beside it to a viewing platform at the top. The climb is several hundred steps.

Above the falls, a path follows the river inland past a string of smaller waterfalls. Allow one to two hours here. On the way to Vík, you'll pass turn-offs for the Sólheimajökull glacier tongue, where guided glacier walks run, and the Dyrhólaey headland with its sea arch.

Reynisfjara: beautiful and dangerous

Just west of Vík, Reynisfjara is a black-sand beach backed by cliffs of hexagonal basalt columns, with the Reynisdrangar sea stacks standing offshore. It's also one of the most dangerous places in Iceland. Sneaker waves can run far up the sand without warning and drag people into the cold Atlantic.

Stay well back from the waterline, never turn your back on the sea, and keep children close. Follow the warning signs at the entrance and any closures in force. Allow about an hour.

Vík: the natural base

Vík í Mýrdal is a small village under green cliffs, with a red-roofed church on the hill above town. With fuel, a supermarket, cafés and a range of guesthouses and hotels, it's the most practical overnight stop, roughly halfway between Seljalandsfoss and Jökulsárlón.

If Vík is full, look at Hvolsvöllur or Hella to the west, or Kirkjubæjarklaustur to the east.

Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach

East of Vík, the road crosses the moss-covered Eldhraun lava field and wide, flat outwash plains below Vatnajökull, Europe's largest ice cap by volume. Skaftafell, part of Vatnajökull National Park, is a good stop on the way for short hikes.

Jökulsárlón is a glacier lagoon where icebergs calved from the glacier drift slowly towards the sea. Boat trips run on the lagoon in the warmer months. Across the road, chunks of ice wash up on the black sand of Diamond Beach, glittering in low sun. The same wave warnings apply here, and don't climb on the ice. Allow at least two hours.

As a day trip from Vík, this means about five hours of driving in total. It's more relaxed to sleep near Skaftafell, Jökulsárlón or Höfn and head back west the next day.

Driving tips and seasons

• Check conditions every day. Iceland's official road and weather services publish live road conditions and wind warnings. Plans can change overnight.
• Hold the car door. Gusts can rip a door open and damage it. Park facing into the wind, open doors with both hands, and check what your rental cover says about wind and gravel damage.
• Never stop on the road for photos. Use proper pull-outs and car parks. The Ring Road here is a two-lane road with no hard shoulder, and there are single-lane bridges further east: the car that reaches the bridge first has priority.
• Speed limits are typically 90 km/h on paved rural roads and lower in villages, and cameras are common.
• Parking fees apply at several popular stops, usually paid by app or machine.
• Summer brings very long days and the busiest roads. Winter brings ice, strong winds, only a few hours of daylight and the chance of the northern lights on clear, dark nights. If you're not used to winter driving, consider a guided tour between November and March.

Practical booking tips

• Book accommodation early for June to August. Beds along the coast are limited, and Vík fills up first.
• Rent a car that suits the season: a standard car is fine on the paved Ring Road in summer. In winter, winter tyres are standard and a four-wheel drive helps.
• Fill up when you can. Fuel stations are spaced out, and card-only pumps often ask for a PIN.
• Glacier walks and ice caves are for guided tours only; never go onto a glacier on your own. Book ahead in peak season.
• Travel rules change: check the current rules on the official site for road closures, park access and entry requirements before you go.

Take it slowly and respect the sea, and the South Coast is one of the finest drives anywhere.

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Cover photo: Gerd Eichmann, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons