Hotel del Coronado: history, the beach and what to do nearby

The Hotel del Coronado is one of America's great seaside hotels. Its white wooden wings and red turrets sit right on the sand of Coronado Beach, across the bay from downtown San Diego, and it has been drawing visitors since the 1880s. This guide covers the hotel's history, how to get there, the best things to do on Coronado and across the bay, and who it suits.

A Victorian resort by the sea

The Del, as it's widely known, opened in 1888, built by developers who hoped to turn the empty peninsula into a resort town. Its architects, the Reid brothers, gave it the steep red roofs, turrets and long verandas that still define it. It is one of the largest wooden buildings in the United States and is a National Historic Landmark.

The hotel has welcomed presidents, royalty and film stars over the years. Its best-known screen role came in the 1959 comedy Some Like It Hot, starring Marilyn Monroe, Tony Curtis and Jack Lemmon, in which it stood in for a Florida resort. Newer buildings have been added on the grounds, but the original Victorian building remains the centrepiece.

Where it is and how to get there

Coronado is often called an island, but it's connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land, the Silver Strand, to the south. Most visitors arrive over the tall, curving San Diego–Coronado Bridge.

• By air: San Diego International Airport is close to downtown, usually about 15–20 minutes' drive from the hotel outside rush hour.
• By ferry: passenger ferries cross from the downtown waterfront to the Coronado Ferry Landing in about 15 minutes. From there, it's a longer walk, a bike ride or a short bus or taxi ride down Orange Avenue to the hotel.
• Getting around Coronado: the town is flat and compact. Bicycles are a popular way to explore, and the main street, Orange Avenue, has shops, cafés and restaurants.

Coronado Beach

Out front, Coronado Beach is wide, flat and well kept, and its sand glitters with tiny flecks of mica. It's made for long walks at sunset and is a favourite with families, thanks to its gentle slope and open space. The Pacific here is cool for much of the year, so many visitors paddle rather than swim. Lifeguards patrol the main beach; check the flags and posted conditions.

The Ferry Landing and the skyline

On the bay side of Coronado, the Ferry Landing has the best view of the San Diego skyline, especially at night when the towers light up across the water. It has a small collection of shops and restaurants, and the bayside path makes a pleasant walk or bike ride. The ferry itself is worth taking even if you have a car, just for the view.

USS Midway Museum

Across the bay, the aircraft carrier USS Midway is now a museum on the downtown waterfront. Allow a few hours: the flight deck alone is huge, lined with restored aircraft, and the tour continues below decks through crew quarters, the galley and engine areas. Arrive early on weekends and in summer to avoid the longest lines.

Balboa Park

Then spend an afternoon in Balboa Park, just north of downtown, with its Spanish-style buildings, gardens and more than a dozen museums. The lily pond in front of the Botanical Building is the classic photograph. Walking the park's paths and gardens costs nothing, while most museums charge separately, so pick two or three rather than trying to see them all. The San Diego Zoo is also in the park and deserves its own day if it's on your list.

More of San Diego

• Gaslamp Quarter: downtown's historic district of restaurants and bars, close to the ferry terminals.
• Old Town San Diego: a state historic park recalling the city's Mexican and early American periods.
• La Jolla: a coastal neighbourhood about half an hour north by car, known for its cove, sea lions and tide pools.

Who it suits and when to go

The Del suits families and couples who want a beach holiday with history, and travellers who prefer a quieter base than downtown San Diego. It's less convenient if you plan to spend every evening in the Gaslamp Quarter, since you'll need the ferry, a taxi or a drive across the bridge.

The weather is mild all year. Late spring and early summer often start grey, with morning marine layer that locals call "May Gray" and "June Gloom", so September and October are usually the sunniest months. Summer holidays are the busiest and most expensive period.

Practical tips before you book

• Ocean-view rooms usually cost more. Check which building a room is in, as the historic building and newer wings feel quite different.
• Check the current rate for parking, resort fees and taxes when you book.
• Expect military aircraft noise at times. A large naval air station occupies the north end of Coronado.
• Pack a warm layer. Evenings by the ocean can be cool even in summer.

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Cover photo: Dirk Hansen, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons