:root {
  --bg: #fcfbf8;
  --paper: #ffffff;
  --ink: #1a1a18;
  --ink-2: #3f3f3a;
  --muted: #74736c;
  --line: #e7e4dc;
  --accent: #0f766e;
  --soft: #f3f1ea;
  --serif: "Fraunces", "Iowan Old Style", Georgia, serif;
  --sans: "Inter", ui-sans-serif, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Arial, sans-serif;
  --radius: 12px;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  :root { --bg: #121211; --paper: #1b1b19; --ink: #efeee9; --ink-2: #cfcdc5; --muted: #9a988f; --line: #2d2c28; --soft: #22211e; --accent: #2dd4bf; }
}
* { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; }
body { margin: 0; background: var(--bg); color: var(--ink); font: 17px/1.65 var(--sans); }
a { color: inherit; }
img { max-width: 100%; display: block; }
.wrap { max-width: 1180px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 24px; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: -999px; }
.skip:focus { left: 12px; top: 12px; background: var(--paper); padding: 8px 12px; z-index: 9; }
.muted { color: var(--muted); }

/* masthead */
.masthead { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); background: var(--bg); }
.mast-row { display: flex; align-items: baseline; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px; padding-top: 22px; padding-bottom: 10px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.wordmark { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 650; font-size: 2.3rem; letter-spacing: -.03em; text-decoration: none; line-height: 1; }
.wordmark span { color: var(--accent); }
.wordmark.small { font-size: 1.6rem; }
.tagline { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: .95rem; }
.catnav { display: flex; gap: 22px; overflow-x: auto; padding-top: 6px; padding-bottom: 12px; scrollbar-width: none; }
.catnav a { text-decoration: none; font-weight: 600; font-size: .92rem; color: var(--ink-2); white-space: nowrap; padding: 4px 0; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; }
.catnav a:hover { color: var(--ink); border-color: var(--accent); }

/* cards */
.block { padding-top: 36px; padding-bottom: 12px; }
.sec { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 650; font-size: 1.55rem; letter-spacing: -.01em; margin: 0 0 16px; }
.sec[style] { border-top: 3px solid var(--c); padding-top: 10px; }
.sec-head { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; gap: 16px; }
.more { font-size: .9rem; font-weight: 600; text-decoration: none; color: var(--muted); }
.more:hover { color: var(--ink); }
.grid3 { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 28px; }
.card a { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 12px; text-decoration: none; height: 100%; }
.thumb { aspect-ratio: 16 / 10; border-radius: var(--radius); overflow: hidden; background: var(--soft); }
.thumb img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform .4s ease; }
.card a:hover .thumb img { transform: scale(1.03); }
.art { display: flex; align-items: flex-end; width: 100%; height: 100%; padding: 16px;
  background: radial-gradient(120% 90% at 100% 0%, color-mix(in srgb, var(--c) 55%, transparent), transparent 60%),
              linear-gradient(135deg, color-mix(in srgb, var(--c) 88%, #000) 0%, var(--c) 100%); }
.art span { font-family: var(--serif); color: #fff; font-size: 1.1rem; opacity: .9; }
.card-b { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 6px; }
.kicker { color: var(--c); font-size: .74rem; font-weight: 700; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .1em; }
.card h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 650; font-size: 1.28rem; line-height: 1.25; margin: 0; letter-spacing: -.01em; }
.card a:hover h3 { text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: 3px; }
.card p { margin: 0; color: var(--ink-2); font-size: .95rem; }
.meta { color: var(--muted); font-size: .82rem; }

/* home lead */
.lead-row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 2fr 1fr; gap: 40px; padding-top: 32px; }
.card.lead h3 { font-size: clamp(1.7rem, 3vw, 2.4rem); }
.card.lead p { font-size: 1.05rem; }
.latest { border-left: 1px solid var(--line); padding-left: 28px; }
.mini { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 2px; text-decoration: none; padding: 12px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.mini strong { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 500; font-size: 1.08rem; line-height: 1.3; }
.mini:hover strong { text-decoration: underline; text-underline-offset: 3px; }
.about-band { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; gap: 24px; background: var(--soft); border-radius: 18px; padding: 32px; margin-top: 40px; margin-bottom: 40px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.about-band h2 { font-family: var(--serif); margin: 0 0 6px; }
.about-band p { margin: 0; max-width: 62ch; color: var(--ink-2); }
.btn { display: inline-block; background: var(--ink); color: var(--bg); text-decoration: none; padding: 12px 20px; border-radius: 999px; font-weight: 600; }

/* category head */
.cat-head { padding-top: 40px; }
.cat-head h1 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 4vw, 3.2rem); margin: 0; border-top: 4px solid var(--c); padding-top: 14px; display: inline-block; }
.dek { font-size: 1.15rem; color: var(--ink-2); max-width: 62ch; margin: 10px 0 0; }

/* article */
.post-head { max-width: 860px; padding-top: 36px; padding-bottom: 12px; }
.crumbs { font-size: .85rem; color: var(--muted); margin: 0 0 14px; }
.crumbs a { text-decoration: none; color: var(--c); font-weight: 600; }
.post-head h1 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 650; font-size: clamp(2rem, 4.2vw, 3.1rem); line-height: 1.12; letter-spacing: -.02em; margin: 0 0 14px; }
.byline { color: var(--muted); font-size: .88rem; margin: 16px 0 0; }
.hero-img { margin: 20px auto 0; }
.hero-img img { width: 100%; max-height: 560px; object-fit: cover; border-radius: var(--radius); }
.hero-img figcaption { font-size: .78rem; color: var(--muted); margin-top: 6px; }
.post-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 240px minmax(0, 720px); gap: 48px; padding-top: 28px; padding-bottom: 20px; }
.toc { position: sticky; top: 16px; align-self: start; font-size: .9rem; }
.toc h2 { font-size: .75rem; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .1em; color: var(--muted); margin: 0 0 8px; }
.toc ol { margin: 0; padding-left: 18px; display: grid; gap: 6px; }
.toc a { text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink-2); }
.toc a:hover { color: var(--c); }
.prose { font-size: 1.07rem; }
.prose > p:first-child { font-size: 1.2rem; color: var(--ink); }
.prose h2 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 650; font-size: 1.65rem; letter-spacing: -.01em; margin: 2.2em 0 .5em; line-height: 1.25; scroll-margin-top: 16px; }
.prose h3 { font-size: 1.12rem; margin: 1.6em 0 .3em; }
.prose p, .prose li { color: var(--ink-2); }
.prose a { color: var(--c, var(--accent)); text-underline-offset: 3px; }
.prose ul, .prose ol { padding-left: 1.3em; }
.prose li { margin: .3em 0; }
.prose strong { color: var(--ink); }
.prose blockquote { margin: 1.6em 0; padding: 16px 20px; background: var(--soft); border-left: 4px solid var(--c, var(--accent)); border-radius: 0 10px 10px 0; }
.prose blockquote p { margin: .3em 0; color: var(--ink); }
.prose table { width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; font-size: .94rem; margin: 1.4em 0; display: block; overflow-x: auto; }
.prose th, .prose td { text-align: left; padding: 10px 12px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); vertical-align: top; }
.prose th { font-size: .82rem; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .05em; color: var(--muted); }
.note { font-size: .88rem !important; color: var(--muted) !important; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding-top: 16px; margin-top: 2.4em; }
.page { max-width: 820px; padding-top: 40px; padding-bottom: 40px; }
.page h1 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(2rem, 4vw, 2.8rem); margin: 0 0 16px; }

/* footer */
.foot { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); margin-top: 40px; padding: 40px 0 24px; font-size: .92rem; }
.foot-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 2fr 1fr 1fr; gap: 28px; }
.foot p { color: var(--muted); max-width: 44ch; }
.foot h2 { font-size: .75rem; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .1em; color: var(--muted); margin: 0 0 10px; }
.foot-grid a:not(.wordmark) { display: block; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink-2); padding: 3px 0; }
.foot-grid a:not(.wordmark):hover { color: var(--accent); }
.copy { color: var(--muted); font-size: .82rem; padding-top: 24px; }

@media (max-width: 960px) {
  .grid3 { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
  .lead-row { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .latest { border-left: 0; padding-left: 0; }
  .post-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 12px; }
  .toc { position: static; background: var(--soft); border-radius: 10px; padding: 14px 16px; }
}
@media (max-width: 640px) {
  .wrap { padding: 0 16px; }
  .grid3 { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .wordmark { font-size: 1.9rem; }
  .tagline { display: none; }
  .foot-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .foot-grid > div:first-child { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
}
.note.credit { border-top: 0; padding-top: 0; margin-top: .6em; font-size: .8rem !important; }
.note.credit a { color: inherit; }

/* affiliate booking box (travel guides) */
.aff-note { font-size: .85rem; color: var(--muted); margin: 10px 0 0; }
.book-box { margin: 2em 0; padding: 18px 20px; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-left: 4px solid var(--c, var(--accent)); border-radius: 0 12px 12px 0; background: var(--soft); }
.book-kicker { margin: 0 !important; font-size: .74rem; font-weight: 700; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .1em; color: var(--muted) !important; }
.book-title { margin: 4px 0 12px !important; font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 650; font-size: 1.2rem; color: var(--ink) !important; }
.book-links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 10px; }
.book-links a { display: inline-block; text-decoration: none; font-weight: 600; font-size: .95rem; padding: 9px 16px; border-radius: 999px; background: var(--ink); color: var(--bg) !important; }
.book-links a:hover { opacity: .85; }
.book-note { margin: 12px 0 0 !important; font-size: .82rem; color: var(--muted) !important; }